InsulationStop’s Attic Radiant Barrier Foil
Attics are the primary source of heat transfer in a home. The overhead sun constantly emits radiant heat that hits the roof and is absorbed into the attic. As the attic temperatures rise, more radiant heat is absorbed and transferred by the ceiling above down to you and into your living space.
You can stop this transfer of radiant heat however. Aluminum is one of the most highly reflective materials on Earth. Radiant barriers are highly reflective sheets of aluminum foil woven to a mesh or scrim for thickness, strength, and durability. Installed correctly, and they can lower your attic temperature up to 30 degrees.
At InsulationStop.com, we supply the BEST radiant barrier on the market at the LOWEST price. Our attic radiant barrier is Energy Star Approved and at a 8 mil Thickness and over 33 lbs. Weight (per 1000 sq ft), it is the strongest in the industry.
Attic Installation Methods
Measuring How Much Radiant Barrier Insulation You Need
If you are planning on installing the radiant barrier on the attic floor you only need to measure for the square footage you intend to insulate. If you are stapling the insulation to the rafters you need to account for the pitch of the roof. First measure your attic square footage. Then determine the pitch or slope of your roof. Use table to find your Pitch Factor. Multiply the Square Footage x Your Pitch Factor = Square Footage of Radiant Barrier Required. Don’t forget to include any gable or other end walls. They will need to be insulated as well.
|Discounts Taken at Checkout Page|
|*Discounts for Radiant Barrier Products Only|
Our Attic Radiant Barrier ships fast via UPS. Your order will ship within 24-48 hours, some times the same day. Attic Radiant Barrier ships in a protective box ensuring it arrives in great condition. For discounts on multiple rolls purchased, they price will automatically be reflected in the shopping cart.
InsulationStop's Attic Radiant Barrier Foil Specifications
- Standard Size: 16", 24" and 48" wide by 125 or 250 ft long
- Double Sided Radiant Barrier
- ENERGY STAR® Qualified
- Contains metalized film with polyethylene reinforcement
- Emissivity: 0.05 (ASTM C1371-04a)
- Reflectivity: 95% (ASTM C1371-04a)
- Class A / Class 1 Fire Rating (ASTM E04-10)
- Flame Spread: 0 (ASTM 084-10)
- Smoke Development: 5 (ASTM E84-10)
- Clean and Non-Tonic
- Corrosivity: 100% Humidity, PASS (ASTM D3310-00)
- Mold and Mildew: No Growth (ASTM C1338)
- Water Vapor Permeability: 6.3 perms (ASTM E96-05)
- Thickness: 8 mil
- Weight: 33 lbs / 1000sf roll
- Shear/Tear Strength (Length): 13,23 lb of force (ASTM 02261)
- Shear/Tear Strength (Width): 13.98 lb of force (ASTM 02261)
- Meets EPA standards for sheet radiant barriers
- Meets California Insulation Standards
2 Radiant Barrier New Construction Applications
As long as Radiant Barriers have an airspace on at least one side they are extremely effective at blocking radiant heat. These two applications are for new construction applications where the radiant barrier will be installed as the roof is installed (left) or when a batten style roof is used for various roofing materials (right). On both applications a suitable airspace is achieved for the radiant barrier to have maximum effectiveness.
Here are 2 more roofing applications for our Attic Radiant Barrier Foil.
Some Notes on Ventilation & Air Sealing
An often overlooked area is attic ventilation. This is a very important component to a healthy, efficient attic. This section deals with the different types of attic ventilation and some key concepts to help you better understand how your particular attic ventilates itself so you can save even more on your energy costs, prolong the life of your structure, and live more comfortably.
The two major reasons for attic ventilation is temperature and moisture control. Controlling temperature in the hot months results in lower cooling costs. This is why our attic radiant barriers are effective. They lower the temperature in your attic. This allows less radiant heat into your home. Attic ventilation is just as important. You can also lower your attic temperature by having the correct ventilation. The other reason for attic ventilation is the control of moisture. Moisture that is produced in the home may travel into the attic. This is most prevalent in kitchens and bathrooms. If this moisture can not escape the attic it can condense. This is what causes wood rot, mold growth, and insulation to deteriorate.
The two ways to accomplish attic ventilation is by natural ventilation methods or by power ventilation. First let’s d2012_themeuss natural ventilation. This is the most common method for most homes built within the last forty years. It’s also the most energy-efficient because it works on proven principles. As air becomes warmer it becomes less dense and rises. Also, wind movement around a home creates areas of different pressure. This is how the common ridge and soffit vent system works. If a spaces air inlets or soffits are lower than the air outlets, natural ventilation will occur. The larger the distance between the soffits and ridge vent or inlets and outlets are, the greater the rate of ventilation will be. This is why soffits are on the lowest portion of the roof and the ridge vent is at the highest point. In absence of a ridge vent, other outlet vents such as gable end louvers, and passive roof or turbine vents can be used for natural ventilation. Keep the net area of all the inlet vents and outlet vents the same. Add more vents where appropriate.
Power ventilation can be accomplished in two general ways. The first is the whole house fan. These fans are usually mounted in a central area or a main hallway. When in operation, outside air is pulled through open windows and exhausted through the attic. Using the correct amount of outlet vents ensures there is no pressure build up in the attic and the fan will run optimally. The second is for attic ventilators that exhaust either through the roof or through the gable. This system also works well with soffits or other air inlets and should be installed at the soffit area or if no roof overhang exists, in the opposite gable. A benefit of powered ventilation is they provide excellent ventilation even with no wind.
A good rule of thumb is the better insulated the attic; the less power ventilation will help. However, some attics cannot be insulated well or cannot be ventilated using natural methods. For these, powered ventilation is needed for temperature and moisture control.